Setenil de las Bodegas is one of the most unusual towns in Andalusia, located in the province of Cadiz, Spain. Its uniqueness lies in the fact that some of the houses and buildings were built directly under or into natural rocks, which gives it a unique character and makes it attractive to tourists from all over the world. It is also one of the popular “white towns” in Spain, which has attracted the hearts of many tourists.
Since Setenil was a few dozen kilometers from where we’ve stayed, we decided to visit it and walk along the popular tourist route among the houses carved into the rock. If you are curious about what Setenil looks like and how to plan to come to this town on your own, we invite you to read the post. Also remember that if you have any questions we are always here to help – text us on Facebook. It is also worth combining a trip to Setenil together with a visit to Ronda, which is located a dozen kilometers away.
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How to get to Setenil and where to park your car for free
Setenil is a small town located in the mountains. Getting there is not complicated if you have your own means of transportation. Setenil is located about 100 km from Malaga, 60 km from Ronda and 130 km from Sevilla. The most convenient way to get there is by car, as the town is located in a picturesque but somewhat isolated area. If you plan to travel from Málaga or Sevilla, you can take the route through Ronda – this picturesque town is also worth visiting on the way.
Unfortunately, the question of how to get to the town by public transportation is very difficult. Google does not invent connections that could get you to Setenil by bus. So the best way will be to get here by your own car or a rented car from Malaga. Car prices are not very high, but it depends on the tourist season. In October you will rent a car for a week even under 200 euros.
Free parking is located right at the entrance to the town. Parking spaces are designated both in the bays of the main street and at the exit behind the river, near the school. Car break-ins have been on the rise in Spain lately , but they mainly affect larger towns, so try to park in guarded areas as much as you can. Cars should be safe in Setenil, but for the sake of prudence, don’t leave valuables in view in your car. Also remember not to drive into the town itself, as it is an off-limits zone for tourists. The town is monitored and you may receive a fine for such entry. At the end of the post you will also see an online map with marked parking spaces.
Sightseeing in the town of Setenil de las Bodegas - a walking tour of the town
The town of Setenil de las Bodegas is not large, but it is worth planning about two hours to explore it. We, with the children, spent more than three hours here, but our style of travel is quite slow. In addition, we took scooters for the kids to ride, which only worked well in some parts of the town – we had to carry them on uneven stretches of sidewalk. Setenil can also be visited with a stroller, but be prepared for the fact that there are stairs in several places.
We started our tour from the upper part of the town. It is worth walking up to the church located on a hill. There is a beautiful viewpoint of the old town and the characteristic SETENIL sign. Here you can take a commemorative photo and relax. From here, stairs lead to the lower part of the town, which is famous for its buildings “sunk” in the rock. It is worth walking along the entire road located under the rocks. This will allow you to enter the old part of the town at the back, and to see the most important houses located along the river along the way. These unusual structures are a real architectural phenomenon.
Just walking through the historic part of the town is also quite an attraction, as there are quite a few cafes and restaurants where you can eat popular dishes. If you will be around it is worth trying some local delicacies:
- Chorizo and morcilla – Setenil is known for its excellent cured meats, especially chorizo (spicy pork sausage) and morcilla (Spanish black pudding). They are often served cold, in the form of tapas, but taste just as good fried or grilled.
- Jamón ibérico – A delicious jamón, or Iberian ham, is produced in the area. It’s worth trying it locally, best served with bread and olive oil.
- Olive oil – The Andalusia region is one of the largest producers of olive oil in the world. In Setenil you can try the oil in various forms – as a topping for bread, in salads or as an ingredient in local dishes.
- Queso de Cabra – Goat cheese from local villages, often served as tapas, paired with honey, olives or tomatoes, is another local delicacy.
- Tortilla de patatas – The classic Spanish tortilla with potatoes, which in Setenil is served with local accompaniments such as fresh herbs or peppers, is one of the most popular dishes.
Another place that attracts tourists – and perhaps the most popular photo of the town, is the large rock suspended above cave houses (Roca sobre Calle Cuevas de la Sombra) in the historic center of the town.
It is here that you will meet the biggest crowds of people or buy Setenil souvenirs. It’s worth watching out on the street, because despite the crowds, this narrow street is actively used by the town’s residents, making it often necessary to literally press against the wall to let an oncoming car pass.
History of the town of Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil de las Bodegas has an extremely rich and interesting history that dates back to Roman times, but it was the Moorish period that had the greatest impact. The first settlers used the natural caves and rock overhangs as protection from enemies and the elements. In Moorish times, Setenil was a strategic defensive point in the region and was one of the last towns to resist Christian armies during the Reconquista. The name “Setenil” comes from the Latin “septem nihil” – meaning “seven times nothing.” It is said to refer to seven unsuccessful attempts by Christian armies to capture the town. It was not until 1484 that Setenil was finally captured by the forces of Isabella of Castile, making the town one of the last points of Moorish defense in the region.
After the reconquest, Setenil began to develop as an agricultural center, particularly known for its oil, wine and meat production. This is the origin of the second part of the name “de las Bodegas,” which refers to the wine cellars (Spanish: bodegas) that were formerly used to store wine and olive oil.
Historical curiosity
It is interesting to note that during the medieval period Setenil was not a typical defensive town with massive walls like others in Andalusia. Its natural location, where houses were built directly under the rocks, provided exceptional protection from enemies. The rocky canopies acted as natural shields, making the town difficult to conquer. Setenil is also known for the fact that to this day many of the buildings have retained the same natural forms of rock architecture, being one of the best preserved examples of such construction in Europe.
Summary of the tour of the town of Setenil
Setenil de las Bodegas is one of those places that are memorable for a long time, thanks to its unique architecture and unique atmosphere. This town, where houses built under rock overhangs create an extraordinary view, is a perfect destination for travelers looking for something unique in Andalusia. Setenil offers not only picturesque scenery, but also a rich history that dates back to Roman and Moorish times.
Tourists should pay special attention to the streets of Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra, where you can walk between houses built into the rocks. Visit the ruins of a Moorish castle for a panoramic view of the area, and sample local specialties such as chorizo, jamón ibérico and olive oil at one of the restaurants located under natural rock canopies.
Setenil is not only a stunning place to visit, but also a perfect stop on the route between Ronda and other Andalusian attractions. It’s the perfect place for a day trip, where you can feel the authentic Andalusian atmosphere and discover the hidden treasures of the region.
